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March 2003
After installing all the gear door hardware I am now committed to getting my hydraulics done. The lines from the pump to bulkhead are done and moving forward to the cockpit, I begin by making a paper template for routing the next lines. Using the bending tool takes a lot of practice to put the bend where you need it to be. I make a mark on my line and begin the bend about 5/16 ahead of the bend in order for it to match my pattern.

Once the lines are installed I came up with my own way of doing stand-offs to keep the lines secure and from resting on the floor. Basically, it is like the one in the cockpit. I used 1/4" phenolic with a groove for the tubing and a hole below for tie wraps. A two-bid of carbon was bonded on to each face to create a flange. This makes it possible to securely bond them to the floor. When the lines are installed, they are wrapped with friction tape to keep the lines from being chaffed.

Since I will have my fresh air vents on my panel, I need to make ducts for the scat tubing to slip over. I used some sprinkler tubing as a base for a mold. It has to be wrapped with masking tape to build up the diameter and then wrapped with release tape so the three-bid carbon lay-up will come off when cured. I trimmed to shape and bonded them in the NACA duct with flox and reinforced with three-bid carbon.

Before moving on the hydraulic lines in the cockpit I installed the center console and made noted on fit for the lines to come.




I After the NACA duct cured I gave the interior a thick coat of primer, sanded it out and began some minor touch-up with metal glaze. When it was finally right on, I sprayed a final coat of primer and bonded the faces in.

Back to cockpit lines. I finished my hard lines and began fabricating the flex lines. All very easy so far and really much better than sanding out micro and blocking primer. I made the flex lines according to the manual and utilized the drill bits to keep the lines from being blocked during fabrication. My son Patrick was interested in this and had a good time bending lines and putting the fittings together.

I had a bit of a set-back Sunday. All my fault too. I had made safety marks for my fittings and thought I could cross the line. Bottom line is that I had to re-route my center line and patch the spar (flox and three-bid front and back). I checked with Mark and it's structurally fine. In the photo above I cut one of my 45 degree fittings so I could make sure it would clear the flap tube. All is fine now and it's out to the wheel wells.




The real hard fabrication has begun. I don't think there is any rule in the wheel wells except make the lines fit, clear and keep things serviceable and safe. The transition holes from side-to-side were different due to where the ribs were bonded-in. By double checking everything and making sure that the fitting nuts would clear each other, I drilled the holes and installed the fittings. Final positioning was done and the fittings were torqued down.

I began making some rough patterns for my lines with copper wire. It's important to have a clear plan and know where those lines need to be and how they will coexist with each other before bending. I wasted a lot of tubing and worked late before I got the lines right, but for a first-time builder it may be just part of the normal process. In the end, I'm pretty happy with my lines and everything looks good and clears fine. It will also work well with the fuel line to come later on.

A tip I picked up from another builder was to use a drill bit in the tube in order to get a tighter bend. I wrapped the bit with tape to keep from damaging the tube wall. This worked well and made the lines fit closer in the wells.



Continuing to finish my wheel well lines gets smoother with an improved comfort level of planning, bending and fitting. Making notes on my lines helped aid in getting them to fit better after removing them for final tweaking. Along with the line fabrication, I am still working on my NACA scoops. Sanding, filling, sanding, priming, sanding.

I got my nose wheel fitted and when the bearing blocks were in the ideal positioning with no interference or binding of the over-center linkage, I had -5 degree of rake. Ron Jones had the same problem, along with Jim Coelho. Ron's fix was to get Snowline (Lancair's parts subcontractor) to make up longer linkage arms by 3mm in order to restore some positive rake. In the above photo it shows the original and the longer part made up and installed. Another great fix by Ron. I was lucky enough that he made several pairs and sold me an extra set. I now have a positive rake of +1.5 degrees. Lancair really needs to correct this problem, because the other Legacy builders are having similar trouble. After final adjustments with a digital level I drilled my bearing block holes and bolted it all together.

Another great month with getting a lot of work done on my plane. I'm a little disappointed I couldn't finish my hydraulic lines in March, but in a couple of weeks I hope to be cycling my gear. I have to get past the dump valve pluming and fabricate my fuel lines still.








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