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September 2002
The gear door release was one of the simplest tasks so far. It is done just like the manual says. I opened up the gap a bit by sanding the door edges and layering with electrical tape. In some areas of the inner doors, enough glass was ground off to where I had to dig out the foam and backfill with flox. Since the doors don't fit the greatest, I had to find a happy medium in high and low spots. I super-glued wooden blocks on to hold the position after the taping. Micro is put in the joggle and the doors are set in place squeezing out the excess. The only important thing to note in the initial fitting is that, I made sure that my inner doors were positioned even with the belly where they will eventually be hinged. Once the micro cured, I cut the tape with a razor and popped them out.

To make the hinges for the outer doors, I used the blocks again for positioning the doors in place, as I had to flip the plane back over and didn't want them to fall out. After fastening the metal hinge on the inside of the door, I floxed-in the phenolic receptacle in the well while everything was fitted in its final position. Making those little parts was fun and I was careful to USE CAR WAX on the hinge and inside to keep the flox from bonding them shut.

In the pictures above I set out to correct the NACA scoop from an idea I got from Jim Thomas (L2K #166). His suggestion is to change the ramp angle and install an airfoil on the leading edge. In all honesty, this added about four extra hours of work and really looks great. There are two documents that will help. One for the airfoil, and one for the ramp angle if you decide to make this mod.

I set out by first cutting the existing ramp and setting the correct angle, 7 degrees in, with a popsicle stick. I backed that up wit a three-bid lay up on the inside and filled the remaining void with micro and sanded smooth. I fabricated new panels with four-bid carbon, sculpted the leading edge airfoil and sealed it with a layer of fiberglass. The notch will allow the airfoil to fit in the new duct later on.

I am coming back to the elevators to improve my gaps. I ripped out my flush horizontal plate and sculpted new ones out of foam so that they can be cupped. A two-bid lay up went over the foam to seal it. This allows the elevator a little more clearance when it swings, but overall a tighter gap. I am also softening the leading edge corners, top and bottom, after talking with Carsten and realizing my plane isn't always going to be trimmed neutral.

Reno! I brought my son Patrick to see the Legacy(s) race. What a thrill! I designed a logo for Rick Schrameck and was his guest in the pits on Friday. Seeing the plane go by with a roar like one of the unlimited was fantastic!. Rick wasn't able to race with full power due to bad fuel he received which burned out a cylinder, but Darryl Greenameyer got the gold and both he and Dave Morss were able to set records in the sport class and push the Glassairs down to the silver race. Lancairs rule four years straight!

If you don't consider Darryl's pylon cut in the Gold race, his average speed comes out to about 340 m.p.h.!

The holes I utilized for clamping my canopy finally get filled. I cut a lot of little scraps out of carbon, tied string to them, applied flox and inserted them in the holes. The string was used to pull back positive pressure and bond them to the inside. Later, I back-filled with more flox.

Shifting my attention to getting the gear doors hinged and installing the hardware components, I began drilling and trimming out my transition holes in the load pads and ribs. I sanded and prepped my wheel wells so I can seal them with a white epoxy paint.

Installing the outer gear doors is so easy, it's not worth mentioning. Just follow the book. The inner doors are another story. To begin with, the screws that hold the arm on are not included with the kit. They must be ordered. Moving along after the hinge and arm are installed, I drilled two oversized holes in the load pad to allow some adjustment in setting the fit of the doors and how they will swing open. Once set and tight, all the other hinge holes can be drilled.

A side task was to make my base for the fuel selector and pump. Ron Brice (L2K #179) was kind enough to pass along his installation advice which should make more sense of how things fit and how to do it better.

My elevator gaps are coming along and nearing the perfect fit and even gap side-to-side. A low spot was filled with wet-micro and sanded out. My NACA scoop gets a little more filler and sanding to get everything clean and straight.

Into week twenty of my build and I sprayed-out my gear wells with Valspar 54 epoxy sealer. I re-install the gear, assembled the wheels (not to forget to add talcum powder to the inside before the tube is inserted) and set my little airplane on its shoes for the first time!

Having it stand on wheels really makes it look alive! I'm having a great time still and owe a lot to the other builders who have been sharing their insights and tips along the way. Next month I will be focused on my controls, fuel pump and flap hardware in preparation for plumbing this winter.

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Copyright © 2005. All rights reserved. This site is the builder's log of Don Barnes and for the purpose of sharing information and opinions related to building a Lancair Legacy. Any person using these images, ideas and tips does so at their own discretion and risk. No responsibility is expressed or implied and is without recourse against anyone related to this site. This site is not affiliated with Lancair International or Neico Aviation Inc., however, we love their aircraft.

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